A 70 kilometer (44 mile) ride into the mountains, sits an unforgettable place called Hierve el Agua. These hot springs attract people from all over to enjoy not only the really hot water, but also the views. From seeing simple life just outside the walls of this attraction, to the spectacular views throughout this whole area of Oaxaca. These Hot Springs and Mountain Scenes are something out of a dream.
Riding to Hierve el Agua
For such a short distance, one would think it would take much less than 1.5 hours. The curves and ascent on these mountain roads remind me very much of Colorado! The only noticeable difference, I would say, is that Colorado’s roads do crazy elevation changes. These roads are a constant climb to the peak. Another difference? In Colorado, you can be sure there are no stray cows snacking on some street-side grass around the bend. You have to remember, we are really far into the mountains, and away from most civilization.
I remember one curve I went around, there was a broken down truck on cinderblocks right at the peak of the curve. I’m glad no one was coming the opposite direction, as I may not be writing this post right now.
Always expect something around the bend, no matter how confident you are in a situation.
Small town vibes
I made it to San Isidro Roaguía, the very small town where the hot springs are located. I don’t believe it gets much more rural than this! Livestock roaming freely around the roads and town, people using donkeys to haul heavy loads to and fro. Small town vibes to me means simple living. Time is not a bother here. So long as the sun is up, people have work to do. As always, the motorcycle fully loaded throws people for a loop. It’s like they are seeing a UFO! To the people in these villages, the bike might as well be. I am not here to dominate the human race, though (or anything else you crazies have in your head). I’m just here to enjoy some hot springs!
The big entrance fee
I made it through the town, handmade signs painting the way towards my final destination. When I arrived to the entrance, the gate was nothing more than an older gentleman holding a rope across the road. When you would pay the whopping 10 pesos (50 cents US!) to get through, he would drop the measly rope. I have seen this tactic used in other places where it isn’t really meant for, but I’ll save that for some other time.
Another mile or so, and I arrived at my final destination. I wasn’t sure what to expect when I came up to the entrance. At first sight, it seemed like a bunch of small stores surrounding a parking lot, and I was curious if I made the right choice coming out here. One thing I have realized about myself? I tend to go in blindly to many places I see on the map. I decided I already broke the bank to get in here, why not go check it out for a few minutes.
Utter amazement
Truthfully, the walkway down to the hot springs was just as spectacular as the hot springs themselves. I mean, I have been asking for some real mountain views for quite some time now. I got more than what I could have imagined possible in this one spot. As I got closer, there was this area with a big tree close to the edge of the mountain. It was blocking the view of the springs, and I’m kind of glad it did. It was like passing through this threshold into foreign lands. The tree itself was perfectly placed by nature.
I walked under this big tree, an old man sitting at the trunk, enjoying some afternoon shade. Walking past the tree, it was like I opened my eyes in a dream. Right in front of me, a bunch of pools with people hanging in and around them. To my left? A mountain range that seemed to go on into eternity. To see people in the pools just looking into the green abyss is a sight burned into my brain.
Every person should get to experience nature in this way at least once in their lives. In such a way that all your problems, fears, anxieties, and worries fall to the way side. They are just not important enough, or even powerful enough, to overcome the view right in front of you in a wonderland such as this.
Goodbyes and farewells
It was tough to take my eyes away from this view, to be honest. I wanted to stay all day, but I had to continue on. I don’t like driving at night on the highway here for many reasons. One thing I really enjoy about visiting these places? I know I will be back.
To leave something you love for a while, only to see it again when you return, is something that allows you to gain a whole new perspective on what it is you saw in the first place.
To feel the growth you have made within yourself from the first time you saw something. Seeing it with a whole new set of eyes, with a whole new line of experiences under your belt.
Mexico in general has been such an incredible first country to visit on the motorcycle outside the United States. Although I have a few more places to hit before I head to Guatemala, my time in this beautiful country is slowly coming to an end. This 70 kilometer ride into the mountains led me to so many realizations for myself, and for that I am eternally grateful. Grateful for the mountains showing their endless power, from a serene pitstop on the side of their rolling hills.
‘Til next time,
Pete – A Traveling Teacher