I have spent time in cities more than in nature these past couple weeks, and thought it was time to go explore a bit more. Setting up a home base and exploring the surrounding areas has been a great change! One of the places I decided to check out while in Antigua was Lake Caldera. As beautiful as this place was, the road to Lake Caldera was the real kicker in this experience.
Leaving for the Lake
I left for Lake Caldera from Ciudad Vieja. About a 1.5 hour drive, I knew this would be a time for reflection, as always. I made it to a town outside of the lake without any snags, and wanted to find the best way to get to the lake. There are always multiple routes on Google Maps, so obviously I chose the road next to another water feature.
The route I took looked great, until I was supposed to turn right. I’ve realized it is always an adventure when traveling in other countries with a GPS. You are never sure what you may get into. Just like back in Greece last year, this one took me on a really sketchy and steep dirt road. I stopped at the bottom for about 30 seconds, just feeling out what I should do. Do I turn around, and find a more secure road to take, or do I just give this one a shot and see what happens? Almost without realizing, the words “this is the route I chose” came out of my mouth. The second I heard myself say that, I decided to try the dirt road.
It is funny how life brings small experiences that can summarize whole life events in a matter of 6 words.
Dirt Riding
With all the luggage off the bike, it felt much nimbler, and I felt that much more curious. What can this bike really do? The dirt road was full of rocks and divots I tried to maneuver over, and I ended up making it to what seemed the end. Indeed, it was the end of the road. This was a road that turned into a hiking trail! I saw people walking up the grassy slope, and asked one of them if this was passible. The guy told me it was only a little harder than what I just rode up, and I decided to keep going. I was too far into this to turn back now! I got up about 50 feet more, and found a big section of rocks and terrain that looked very difficult.
Just like snowboarding, it is always important to look at the terrain as a whole, and try to plan out your route. I sat there for a couple seconds and found the route I wanted to take. Only one choice left! Hit the gas, and go for it. Thankfully, the skid plate has taken a beating from the start of Mexico, and I knew it would be able to protect the engine from damage. I maneuvered over a few big rocks, and dropped the bike. Surprisingly, I didn’t feel anything about it. I knew the bike was fine, just as much as I knew I was getting through this terrain.
A Helping Hand
The hikers behind me helped getting the bike upright. To see the look on their faces was priceless. Who’s this Gringo trying to ride this big bike up a hiking trail? They thought it was great, and helped me stabilize the bike through the big rocks. I thanked them and continued on my way. Making it to the paved road again, I felt this rush of excitement and energy. I just rode through some crazy stuff to get here! This experience is already a win in my book (and it hasn’t even started!).
I got to the edge of town, where the GPS said to take another dirt road. Stopped on the edge of the street, was a man looking at his phone on a parked motorcycle. I asked him if I was going the right way toward the lake. He warned me the road was treacherous, and would be extremely difficult to navigate on the motorcycle. I already had my thrill for the day, and decided to take his advice.
Parking the Bike
I asked him if it was safe to park the bike here, and he said yes. He sat there for a good minute straight; I could tell he was thinking. I wasn’t sure of what, but his gears were definitely turning. Sitting there in silence, I waited for what he was going to come up with. He said he had a safer spot to park the bike if I was interested. It only takes a couple sentences to figure out what a person’s motives are, and his seemed pure. I followed him up a road to a woman’s house. He asked her if I could park there, and she said no problem.
Great! The bike is safe.
This man, Jorge, told me how to get to the unmarked trailhead, and we parted ways. I figured it was the last time I would see him on this trip. I made it to the trailhead, when he showed up again on his motorcycle. This time, with a machete. Now, having been in Guatemala for about 3 weeks prior, I have become quite accustomed to people walking around with machetes. It is the main tool men use while working the land. It offers a way to clear trails in nature, and clear fields for farming. Boy, are there plenty of both in this beautiful country!
Jorge pulled over, and asked if I wanted some company on the hike, to make sure I was safe. I decided more conversation was necessary for me to trust this machete-wielding man in the middle of the woods. After a while, he took his license out, and assured me I had nothing to worry about.
But Wait…
Is it really possible to trust someone with a three foot blade to go into the total unknown?
My heart told me yes, so I went for it. Besides, what’s the worst that could happen?
We got to talking immediately, and I found out a lot about him very quickly. Jorge volunteers with a small group of people in this remote village, to patrol and make sure everything is safe for its inhabitants. No wonder the woman didn’t have a problem with him asking for a safe place to park the bike, I thought. He told me about life in the village, his family, and how everyone works together with the little they earn to make ends meet. Jorge works night shift in a fabric factory.
Before you continue reading, I want you to think of how much Jorge, and the rest of the community, earns for working a full 8 hour shift.
Have you thought of a number? Well, here it is. Jorge makes about $6 for a full day’s work. He gets paid more than others because it is night shift. Just to keep things in perspective, that is half the minimum wage for a worker in Boston, PER HOUR. And yet, this didn’t change his appreciation for life. He told me stories of growing up in these mountains. Quickly learning every part of this land like the back of his hand, and you could really tell. What an amazing way to grow up, in the middle of nature.
Conversations and Lake Views
The conversation continued on, and we made it to the view of the lake without me even realizing it. Jorge points to the view, and I see a spectacular lake surrounded by lush green mountains. I had no choice but to stop talking and enjoy the view. After snapping a quick picture, it was time to head down to the edge of the lake. First from above, now below! This lake is so clear and clean, it supplies drinking water for the small town I was in moments ago.
Living Off the Land
Jorge told me about the fish that live in this lake, and how big they are. People in this area, due to the aforementioned low salary, live mostly off the land. Whatever they can fish and gather for food, is what ends up on the table. Here is a perfect example for you:
As we were walking around the edge of the lake to see a different view, we noticed these three women stopped in the woods with bundles of wood. Two of them were already carrying them in the traditional way, on their heads. The third? She had hers on the ground. After exchanging a few sentences, she asked if I could help her load it on her head. I agreed, of course, and realized just how heavy these bundles were! At least 35 pounds, all balanced on their heads! I swear, it is the people along this trip that help me learn all these new cultural differences.
Another experience filled with locals showing me a warm welcome to their country. Throwing all pre-conceived notions straight out the window. Something I have been trying to prove to you, my readers, about these parts of the world? They are full of loving people. Opening their hearts and their homes to total strangers. When I told him this was one of my main goals while on these travels, the smile on his face said it all.
‘Til next time,
Pete – A Traveling Teacher